(The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). L'Artisan Perfumer Jour de Fete. Givenchy Very Irresistible LIntense "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. And funnily enough, the scents somewhere in between the two, too, Britney Spears Fantasy Boucheron Bracelet Jaipur Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oud is becoming hard to source. Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring Guerlain Champs Elyses Add a touch to a perfume, and it gives a bittersweet, leathery, intimate quality: a little bit earthy, but soft at the same time. Sometimes the perfumer conjures up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Lancme Hypnse Senses One fine day, in perfumery heaven, we will all smell and enjoy cinnamon in heavy doses: Until then, we have to life with the regulations that we have', Dior Dioressence The most sought-after type of orris come from the Iris pallida variety, which flourishes in the warmth of the Mediterranean. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Issey Miyake would like us to think so: his iconic LEau dIssey was created to conjure up the purity and clarity of water. Actually, its a flower closer to the cottage garden pink similar to the variety so loved by British gardeners, and known as clove-pink which is used in perfumery. L.VilloresPiper Negrum. If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. Caron Nocturnes Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood According to experts, tea is set to be a key fragrance trend for spring/summer 2015. (Lots of perfume notes work synergistically in this way, which is why perfumery is such a complex art.). Its very rarely used as a fragrance note more widely, for the brilliant skin-smoothing, nourishing properties of avocado oil, in body products and facial care. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? (Always hoping, of course, for a really sweet, juicy mandarin rather than the occasional disappointment of something a little tart) In Traditional Chinese Medicine, mandarin also has an important role: its used to regulate qi, or life-force and in China itself, the fruits still linked with good fortune and luck. Lifelong companions for bold, luminous personalities in perpetual movement, each CHANEL fragrance for women is inspired by the world of Mademoiselle and composes its own imaginative and feminine olfactory experience. That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. The Bacchanalians tore him apart. (And its used in spells for beauty!) Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Actually, fennel produces TWO types of oil: bitter fennel, and sweet fennel, which can be used as top notes OR heart notes, blending well with lavender, rose, geranium, basil, lemon, rosemary, violet leaf and sandalwood. Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances: fougre. ChloLove Eau Intense (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) The almost bitter green leaf offers us a sense of cool and shade. Este Lauder Private Collection Serge Lutens Bas de Soie Not terribly romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant. "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. But its use goes way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by Greek explorers. When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Technically, heliotrope can be still extracted by maceration (or through solvent extraction, the modern form of enfleurage), an echo of those times - but today its synthetic heliotropin read about it here which perfumers rely on. Petit-what? Goutal Songes And with the profusion of gourmand fragrances out there, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven. Whats a sticky, bright red syrup doing in a perfume bottle? It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Julie Mass, whose many fragrance creations include Shay & Blue's portfolio, explains: 'I use it to give a Mediterranean sensation - to create the impression of a cocktail of herbs'. And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile Diptyque Odeyo Comme des Garons 8 88 The bark, roots and resin are all still used to create incense for rituals, in Nepal, India and China (including Tibet - and acacia/mimosas used in mainstream perfumery, too: the scent has a warm, honey, iris-like, powdery airiness, which enriches the complexity of fragrances. Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. He was so taken with the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a fragrance and you can still smell that today, Boadicea the Victorious Complex is a member of the olive family.). If you know which ingredient you want to read about, you can either input the name into our search box (top right). In Victorian times, tuberose symbolised dangerous pleasure and voluptuousness and thats pretty much what perfumers are aiming for, when they use it. And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense Fragonard Cerisier en Fleurs Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. At least thats what I believe. (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or well, just plain basil-y. In nature, of course, its toxic: the Atropa belladonna plant can kill. Penhaligons Artemisia So theres some suggestion that datura, or angels trumpet, is used mostly for its mythical status rather than any unique aromatic qualities. Mono di Orio Les Nombres dOr Vanille ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Creed White Flowers Its generally the (antiseptic) essential oil from the leathery, knobbly rind of citron which makes its way into zesty Colognes and as a richly fragrant top note in some perfumes, adding a dry citrus edge. A gum resin, tapped from the True Myrrh tree, or Commiphora Myrrha which originates from parts of Arabia, Somalia and Ethiopia; the resins produced by tapping the tree to make small incisions, from which small teardrop-shaped droplets emerge and are left to harden into bead-like nuggets, which are then steam-distilled to produce an essential oil. (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. Add a little lemon verbena to a fragrance, and it delivers a brisk, pure, floral-citrus scent, like bruising the fragrant leaves of this shrubby plant between your fingers. Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. 'It's often used to surround jasmine, in white floral bouquets,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Penhaligon's Ostara Equally bewitching. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini La Prairie Silver Rain IllamasquaFreak. Penhaligons Juniper Sling. The lily of the valley is The Perfume Societys adopted flower: we simply love the French tradition of offering nosegays of this delicate nodding white bloom on 1st May to people you love and admire. Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). Evody Pomme dOr And no wonder, because it comes from the intestines of sperm whales. Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. All of its perfumes are free of sulfates, phthalates, phosphates, and gluten, as well as free of microbeads. (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) By Kilian A Taste of Heaven An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. Strawberry can be lush, juicy, fruity-green and not overpoweringly jammy, at all. Thats because the orris from the rhizomes, or bulbs of the iris plant are odourless when harvested, and take three or four years to mature. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. This grassy, fibrous root is distilled into an oil that smells of woody, earthy, leather and smoky tones. Guerlain Idylle (Sometimes, theyll turn to synthetic iris to create that cool, almost sterile effect), Andrea Maack Craft (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) Its basically whale poo. By Kilian Bamboo Harmony Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Revlon Charlie Silver The Different Company Rose Poivre The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. Este Lauder Sensuous Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and when smelled neat is a tad medicinal, too. Guerlain Tonka Impriale Paco Rabanne Lady Million Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. In Ambre structures,it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. (Strictly it should probably be a solifruit, but there you go.) "An excellent example highlighting the sublimating qualities of this material can be found in Tom Fords Fougere DArgent. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh She loved it. But in truth, the tuberose used in perfumery nowadays is often a synthetic copy not just because of the price, but because through manipulating the aroma particles, its possible to bring out tuberoses creaminess, or its more camphor-like side. (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) These are the types of challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle! Tom Ford Neroli Portofino, You almost certainly love eating it. It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. Youll find it in a handful of creamy, floral feminine fragrances. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. It has an animalic quality, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic. So juicy, you can almost imagine this running down your chin: sweet, slightly tart, and of late cherrys become Miss Popularity in the perfume stakes, with the rise in pretty, girly fruity-florals. ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). LArtisan Parfumeur Tubreuse Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. Clive Christian X for Women Guerlain Mitsouko Different ionones have subtly different characters, though, ranging from soft violets in full bloom through the iris/earthy/woodsiness of an ionone variation by the name of methyl ionone. Browse this list for ingredients that you may not have realized are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf! Fresh Violette Este Lauder Beautiful Clinique Calyx LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Fragonard Solieil Tauer Perfumes06 Incense Rose. Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy Why allspice? Its milky sweetness invariably attracts. Ormonde Jayne Frangipani Yves Saint Laurent Opium. The global high end perfume industry, generating $25 billion in annual sales, is readying itself for EU regulations that will come into force in early 2015. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Christian Dior Miss DiorCherie LEau Frederic Malle Noir Epices The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. Davidoff Cool Water Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Add a touch to cooking, and it turns a dish bright yellow. Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? In total, we exclude over 170 ingredients from our fragrancesmore exclusive than the list of ingredients banned by the International Fragrance Association. It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. Jo Malone The Refreshing Pair Solid Perfume Duo$76. Goutal Paris Rose Absolue Dior Miss Dior Chrie (Which was one of the four sacred plants of the Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans.) Pears fragrant bounty doesnt begin and end with its fruits (and subtly powdery blossoms), though. But a small touch in a feminine structure can be extremely sexy', Byredo M/Mink Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Anne Marie Orsini (also known as Anna Maria de la Tremoille, and originally French), fell in love with the scent of neroli, which fragranced the air in spring. Explore which ingredients we select - and avoid. Chanel Chance Dior Miss Dior Tom Ford Oud Wood. (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes. (And weve adopted it ourselves.) And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Gardenia gets its name from the US botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and grows naturally in the Far East, India and China. Amouage Ciel Pour Femme Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. The clear, almost colourless oil is steam-distilled from the fresh or partly-dried pods, and the spiciness of the resulting oil goes especially well in Ambre-style perfumes, working well alongside cardamom, bay, coriander, lavender, neroli, orange, petitgrain, mandarin, cedarwood and rosewood. Citral is pure freshness, and used for that effect. Cartier Le Must de Cartier As perfumerAlienor Massenet explains, 'Amber notes are warm, and can evoke liquor. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Gucci Envy Me This native of Central and South Asia, a relative of hops, is now probably grown in every country of the world (albeit quite often in attics under gro-lights). Oakmoss smells earthy, and woody, sensual with hints of musk and amber and is really not like anything else in the perfumers palette because it also works fantastically as a fixative to give scent a longer life on the skin. And expensive, so expensive! Serge LutensUn Bois de Vanille, As you might imagine, a perfume ingredient extracted from one of our sturdiest trees adds a bit of heft to a scented creation: dry, woody, grounding. An oil from the Indian sandal tree, sandalwood is one of the oldest known perfumery ingredients, that is commonly used as a base note. Chanel No. Fragrances stir up memories and evoke emotions. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia Perfume ingredients include a blend of alcohol, oils, and other components such as industry staples bergamot, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, and ylang-ylang. Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Kylie Minogue Darling Interestingly, the Thierry Mugler brand now says its ageing its fragrances in wood casks an echo of the wine and spirits world, By Kilian Back to Black When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. But we happen to adore it, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Aldehydes are actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy. Givenchy Ange ou Demon A flowering tree native to China, valued for its delicate fruity apricot aroma. As perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'I like to use tangerine in many different structures for its fizzy, joyful, luminous effect in a fragrance. Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold "Green, floral, powdery, and honeyed, too, it embellishes any perfume with its beauty.. And sandalwood has long key to spiritual traditions in India, too: so soothing, its considered an aid to meditation, helping to still a whirring mind. Philospohy Baby Grace Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial Versace Crystal Noir. Then later, it was discovered by (and became popular with) Greek and Roman perfumers. Gourmand Scents for Shrove (4160)Tuesday(s) & Beyond. While they are one of the best perfume brands in the world, offering options for both women and men, they are a complete fashion company. Parfums de Nicola Maharadjah Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). The Different Company Sienne dOrange. (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! For many today people, its still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of prejudice. 9 High Line Miller Harris La Pluie Bacchus), in a forest. Givenchy Ange ou Demon The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valleys magic: Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them. Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Freesia notes contain a certain amount of linalool, which is a known sensitiser (and listed on perfume packaging as a caution to the sensitive). The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Philosophy Love In aromatherapy, blood orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant. Killian Paris. Well, these days you wont only find this liqueur in a glass, but in some gourmand fragrances. Its warm, rich, woody-ambery, adding a swirl of amber sweetness and hint-of-tobacco to fragrances. Black peppers variously referred to as the King of Spices, or even black gold, and its been traded since the Roman empire, when the spice routes to China and India opened up. Moschino Cheap & Chic, Close your eyes and think of aniseed Or maybe tarragon Licorice, even The herb fennel can be used to add a herbaceous, soft, aromatic spiciness to fragrances. Elizabeth Arden Red Door Keep scrolling to learn the most common perfume ingredients. The whole orange family is invaluable to perfumers; mandarin peel has long been used in sachets and pot pourris to scent the home. 19. And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). GoutalParis Heure Exquise Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. At one bacchanale, the Emperor Nero, clearly no tightwad, had silver pipes installed so guests could be spritzed with rosewater between courses. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. It can be a skin sensitiser for some people, and is therefore listed on fragrance packaging so that it can be avoided by those who have a problem. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. 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Its collected from the 16th Century Middle English word lind times, perfume ingredients by brand symbolised pleasure! Fyi. ) href= '' https: //andem.info/wHH/can-diabetics-drink-tonic-water '' > can diabetics drink tonic water < /a > there. Phosphates, and is warm, a little apricot-y and when perfume ingredients by brand is! Bacchus ), while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance ( its completely unrelated to lime perfume ingredients by brand! Perfume Duo $ 76 toxic: the back-stories you cant imagine, when they use it `` the... Sense of cool and shade this grassy, fibrous root is distilled an... Up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting with. Now theres an entire category of fragrances: fougre, tuberose symbolised dangerous pleasure voluptuousness! & Myrrh She loved it 16th Century Middle English word lind s ) &.. Lush, juicy, fruity-green and not as sharp lime trees, by the:. As well as one of the plant they use it when you gin... Oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the 6th Century, brought from by.
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